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Although
Mt. Whitney is the highest mountain in the fourteen contiguous states
it is also the most popular ascent for climbers of all ages and abilities.
The most important thing to know about climbing Mt. Whitney with your
canine best friend is that while the hiking, scenery and lakes are spectacular
and your dog is most welcome on the trails, he or she cannot accompany
you on the final ascent to the summit from Trail Crest because that portion
is within Sequoia National Park, where pets are not permitted on trails.
Thus, if you plan to climb the entire mountain you'll have to have your
dog wait with a human buddy at the Outpost campground while you make the
ascent solo. Do not under any circumstances leave your dog unattended
in a tent or tied up anywhere! This is wilderness, and also bear country.
Secondly,
be aware that permits are required, and for overnight trips must be reserved
well in advance. Permits are required for day hikes as well, and may be
obtained at the ranger station in Lone Pine, which closes at 4:30 PM daily.
However, if you wish to take a wonderful day hike or short conditioning
hike a permit is not required to hike as far as Lone Pine Lake on the
main trail starting from Whitney Portal. This portion is 2.8 miles and
can be fairly strenuous but extremely rewarding as a first hike of the
season. We usually camp at the Whitney Portal campground and begin this
hike the following morning, the earlier the better, as it can be very
warm in summer. The waterfall shown is just past the pond near the Whitney
Portal Store, and refreshing to visit before or after a hike.
Arriving
in the authentic Western town of Lone Pine you'll turn toward the mountains
at the town's only stoplight and wind uphill for nine miles, passing first
through the much filmed and geologically unique Alabama Hills. There are
several campgrounds, of which I enjoy the Lone Pine campground in cooler
weather and the Whitney Portal campground in summer. It's best to have
reservations,
since there are only 16 first-come first-serve sites in this extraordinary
high-altitude campground. There is also backpackers' camping available
just before the Whitney trailhead within walking distance of the store
and pond. Wherever you camp, be sure to store food in the storage lockers
provided, not in your car, since bears do break into cars for food. Also,
please heed the signs to keep your dog(s) leashed or otherwise restrained
at all times. My neighbors in the adjacent campsite had a Golden Retriever
and Yellow Labrador leashed to a long cord stretched between two trees,
giving the dogs a lot of mobility and freedom to play. Buddy and Pal became
friends of Genevieve, and because Genevieve wandered off after dinner
I became friends with their humans. Although Genevieve was on-lead lying
next to me while I was eating in our campsite, she managed to sneak off
to the roaring brook below our site. The moment I missed her I began calling
and searching for her, and walked first to Buddy and Pal's site. Fortunately
I was aided by Tony Kay, who had a much stronger torch than I, and immediately
spotted Genevieve, immobilized on the far side of the brook. It seemed
that the leash had gotten tangled among the rocks and branches, so I waded
in to extricate her... I recently received e-mail from Tony telling me
that as he and his family were packing up they spotted a bear just where
we had found Genevieve!
Parking at
the Whitney trailhead fills up very early with hikers attempting the full
ascent in one day. If you arrive after 8 AM and are down before 8 PM you
may park in the day and picnic area near the pond, where recreational
fishermen begin arriving around 9. The general store at Whitney Portal
serves hearty breakfasts from 7 AM and great chicken sandwiches and other
items until about 8 or 9 at night. For $5 you can have a long hot shower
after your hike. You can even buy most things that you might need for
hiking or backpacking, including bear-proof food barrels.
Although
Genevieve and I usually meet other dogs on the trail, this time we didn't.
The main Whitney trail is very well-marked, graded, and maintained. While
there is water available near the trail in many areas it is advisable
to have your dog carry extra water for those dry sections where he or
she may become overheated. I take a camelback and an extra liter for the
dayhike to Lone Pine Lake. In the mornings the sun can be very intense
as it reflects on the nearly white granite of the Owens Valley below.
Although much of this portion of the trail offers shade from trees there
is a fairly long section of switchbacks without any tree coverage. Here
Genevieve found rocky outcroppings to rest under. This is definitely not
a hike for human or canine couch potatoes, but it is possible for anyone
who is moderately fit and acclimated to the altitude. I have ascended
as far as Consultation Lake and the Outpost campground with Genevieve
on several other occasions, and once made it as far as Trail Crest (14,000
feet) alone. A woman who died recently at the age of 104 regularly climbed
Mt. Whitney well into her 90's, and she only took up mountain climbing
at the age of 65.
In
the intense heat of late-August this hike was rather arduous for us both,
and Genevieve arrived exhausted at Lone Pine Lake. But after retrieving
her Kool Kong from the lake, swimming nearly halfway across each time
she was refreshed and ready for a tug of war. Because of the sun I remained
completely covered in white garments, since the UV at this altitude is
much stronger.
The hike
was made infinitely more pleasurable by the fact that we met a pottery
instructor from Esalen Institute, Noel Mapstead, who was hiking with his
lovely daughter Barbara. We photographed one another with my Olympus digital
camera, in use for the first time in the wilderness. The terrain seen
to the right is typical of the remainder of the Mt. Whitney trail. For
the most part it is not hard on a dog's feet except in the upper elevations.
On Genevieve's first trip as a young dog she experienced some difficulty
with climbing on the rocks, but as far as Mirror Lake (one mile past Lone
Pine Lake) there should not be any problems for most well-conditioned
dogs.
Other outstanding
hikes in the Eastern Sierra with a dog reviewed by us are: Duck
Pass, Crystal Lake, Rock
Creek, Saddlebag Lake
We encourage our readers to consider the fine quality
natural dog and cat foods from Flint River Ranch.
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